For the Record

by | Mar 10, 2022

It took me a full 3 seconds before I wiped-out into the waves, rolling, as if I were a beach tumbleweed. Surfboard in tow, briefly fluttering above my head like a sheet of wax paper. But I did it! I made a pop-up, just before I lost my balance and fell off like a graceful hippo. (There is no elegant way of being pummelled.)

Recently, I started learning how to surf. However crazy at my age, of 37 years young.
This has literally been a lifetime bucket list. During the schooling process, I have come to understand that balance is just as critical in the sport, as it is in our own personal lives.
Respectively, in both scenarios, should you lose your equilibrium, one usually ends up taking a nose dive!

Most surfboards have a line running down the middle, beginning from the nose, stretching to the tail. This centre stripe is called a ‘stringer’ which adds strength and flex to the board. To gain the perfect surf stance there is a golden rule: Both your feet must always be centred on the width of the surfboard. Meaning your feet arches should be positioned equally on each side of the ‘stringer.’ By not standing with your feet centred, will most likely cause you to fall on the side which you put more weight.

This analogy resonates with me so well. The ‘fear’ of losing control is a big factor in my life. One that I have always been in-tune with and fully aware of its affect. More often than not I self-sabotage with unrealistic expectations and then try balance my decisions on an uneven scale. The beauty of growing older is that we become more accepting of our flaws and have the maturity and humility to work on them now, with less judgment and more self-love than we did with our younger-selves.

The reality is; we all actively work at equalising our responsibilities, duties, priorities and livelihoods. There will always have to be one more choice made above the other and
consequences to deal with thereafter! Over loading our capacity equates to eventual capsizing. Once we are in the water; simply put, it is either (sink or swim.)

Sometimes when we lose our footing and topple over into the unknown, It may feel as if the proverbial surfboard you were riding on has drifted further away from your reach, than when you initially started surfing. You might need to paddle harder to climb back on. There is the possibility of injury… when a surfboard slams into you the pain is real. But it’s part of the commitment and resolution to get back on-board.

The stringer, provides the strength and flex. It absorbs and resists pressure and impact during a surf session. As a matter of fact it makes the board more solid and durable. My question to you is this: Who or what is the ‘stinger’ in your life, self-sufficiency, your values… relationship with God? (When you do fall off who or what gives you the strength to rise-up again.) The price for perception comes from growth. From nose dives, tumbles, pummels and rolls. To learn to fall is to learn to get back up again. Developing my new skill set has given me better insight. Deepened my relationship with God and reminded me that it is human to fall. But to stay down is to give up.

“Wiping out is an underappreciated skill.”
Laird Hamilton

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